By Sondra Barr
Photos by Sondra Barr
There’s something liberating about being able to hop on a plane and, in just over two hours, find yourself in a completely different world. That’s the beauty of Flagstaff for anyone flying out of Texas. With direct flights from Dallas Fort Worth International Airport (DFW) to Flagstaff Pulliam Airport (FLG), the journey feels effortless—like the adventure is inviting you in without any hassle. And trust me, Flagstaff is worth the trip. This high-country town is a treasure trove of breathtaking landscapes, fascinating history, and an unexpectedly vibrant food scene that will leave you enchanted.
Flagstaff isn’t a place that tries too hard to impress—it doesn’t need to. From its towering pines and rugged trails to its retro motels and James Beard-nominated restaurants, it balances small-town charm with big-city appeal in a way that feels effortless.
My first stop was the Little America Hotel, and stepping onto the property felt like entering a mountain retreat designed for pure relaxation. The hotel is set on 500 acres of Ponderosa pine forest, and its recent $50 million renovation has only enhanced its appeal. Rooms are spacious and inviting, featuring warm, earthy tones and views that stretch out over the forest. It’s the kind of place where you don’t just stay—you linger.
The hotel’s Silver Pine Restaurant & Bar is an easy choice for dinner, and its patio is a standout. Heated floors and flickering fire features kept the evening chill at bay as I sipped a whiskey sour that came highly recommended. (Pro tip: Ask for extra Luxardo cherries—you won’t regret it.) The food mirrored the setting—fresh, comforting, and thoughtfully prepared. It’s a perfect introduction to Flagstaff’s understated luxury.
For my next night, I wanted to experience the vintage charm of High Country Motor Lodge, a reimagined boutique hotel on historic Route 66. It’s like stepping into the past, with its mid-century design elements, but the amenities are decidedly modern. My room was well-appointed, with just enough personality to make it memorable.
The Nordic Spa is a surprise highlight. Alternating between hot and cold therapy pools sounds intimidating, but the experience left me completely refreshed. Later, I grabbed a cocktail from The General Store and joined a group around the fire pits. The lodge’s communal vibe is infectious—it’s the kind of place where you end up chatting with fellow travelers long after your drink is gone.
Flagstaff’s history is as much a part of its identity as the Ponderosa pines. The Hotel Monte Vista is a classic example. Built in the 1920s, it’s known for its vintage charm—and its ghosts. While I didn’t spend the night, I couldn’t resist checking it out and soaking in the ambiance, especially after hearing about its haunted history during a Freaky Foot Tour, but more on that later.
One of Flagstaff’s biggest draws is its connection to the stars. A visit to the Lowell Observatory brings that to life. Gazing at Saturn’s rings through a high-powered telescope was unforgettable, but what stood out most was the observatory’s history—it’s where Pluto was discovered, after all. The guides made the experience accessible and engaging, even for someone like me, whose astronomy knowledge is mostly limited to wishing on stars.
Just a short drive away, the volcanic landscape of Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument feels like another planet. The trails wind through lava fields and cinder cones, remnants of eruptions nearly 1,000 years ago. It’s a striking contrast to Flagstaff’s dense forests and a reminder of the diverse beauty this region holds.
Meanwhile, a gondola ride at Arizona Snowbowl took me to new heights—literally. The views from the summit of Humphreys Peak stretch for miles, with the golden hues of aspen trees creating a patchwork of color against the evergreens below. It’s a perspective that feels uniquely Flagstaff: wild, unspoiled, and expansive.
In winter, Snowbowl transforms into a skier’s dream, offering groomed runs and powdery slopes without the hustle of larger, more commercialized ski areas. The lift lines are shorter, the atmosphere is more laid-back, and the trails cater to all skill levels, from gentle beginner runs to thrilling black diamonds. It’s a breath of fresh air—both figuratively and literally—compared to the crowds often found at big-name resorts. Yet Snowbowl still delivers stunning alpine views and a well-maintained infrastructure, making it a favorite for locals and visitors alike. In the warmer months, the gondola ride becomes a peaceful escape, offering access to hiking trails and vistas that rival any in the Southwest. Whether you visit for the snow or the solitude, Snowbowl offers a mountain experience that’s hard to beat.
Flagstaff’s food scene is also a delightful surprise, blending innovative concepts with a strong sense of place. At Atria, every dish feels meticulously crafted, a love letter to the region’s fresh, seasonal bounty. The roasted bone marrow appetizer, rich and velvety, paired with a daring whiskey luge, is an unforgettable start to the evening. For the main course, the locally raised beef short ribs, braised to perfection and served with a creamy parsnip purée, showcase the kitchen’s mastery of bold, comforting flavors. Atria’s ambiance, with its warm lighting and elegant-yet-unpretentious vibe, only adds to the experience. It’s the kind of place where you savor every bite, wondering how soon you can return.
Meanwhile, Shift Kitchen & Bar brings an energetic and playful approach to dining. The Sacchetti pasta—delicate, cheese-filled pockets drizzled with truffle oil—is indulgence at its finest. Their pickled French fries sound unusual, but one bite will have you questioning why all fries aren’t pickled. Shift’s shareable small plates and creative twists on familiar dishes encourage diners to explore bold combinations, making it a perfect spot for adventurous eaters. Don’t skip dessert here—the brown butter cake, served warm with a dollop of house-made ice cream, is the ultimate sweet finale.
For breakfast or brunch, Forêt FLG delivers French-inspired dishes with a rustic yet polished touch. Their Yukon gold hash bowl is a revelation—a hearty mix of perfectly crispy potatoes, soft poached eggs, and savory seasonal vegetables. The café’s airy, welcoming vibe makes it a favorite spot to linger over a meal, especially with one of their expertly brewed cappuccinos in hand.
Lunch at Lumberyard Brewing Company was equally memorable. The Vietnamese burger, loaded with char siu pork, pickled daikon, jalapeños, and sriracha aioli, is an inspired take on banh mi flavors, marrying spice and umami with each juicy bite. Their truffle fries are crisp and fragrant, the perfect indulgence to pair with one of their craft beers. For a sweet treat, the beer float—made with their Red Rock Raspberry ale—was a fun and surprisingly refreshing dessert.
Flagstaff’s dining scene caters to every craving, from upscale dinners to laid-back comfort food, making it a hidden gem for food lovers. Three more standout spots—Fat Olives, Salsa Brava, and Fat Bagels—are all owned by Arizona native John Conley, whose culinary talent has earned him features on the Food Network’s “Top Places to Eat in Flagstaff.” At Fat Olives, wood-fired pizzas and handmade pastas celebrate authentic Italian flavors, while Salsa Brava offers vibrant, fresh Mexican dishes that locals love. His newest venture, Fat Bagels, delivers perfectly chewy bagels with creative toppings for a satisfying start to any day. Conley’s dedication to quality and creativity shines across all three restaurants, making Flagstaff’s culinary scene all the more impressive.
Of course, Flagstaff isn’t all about the outdoors and fine dining—it has a quirkier side too. Locally owned, Freaky Foot Tours offers riveting stories of opium dens, Skinwalkers, and ghostly apparitions, many of the latter supposedly haunting the aforementioned Hotel Monte Vista. It’s a different way to see the city, one steeped in the darker corners of its history.
And then there’s the beer. Flagstaff’s craft breweries showcase the town’s creativity and community spirit. Stops at Dark Sky Brewery, Mother Road Brewing Company, and Beaver Street Brewery highlight the ingenuity of local brewers, which comes as no surprise in this vibrant college town, home to Northern Arizona University. The Flagstaff Brewery Trail is a must for beer enthusiasts, offering a digital passport that guides you through eight local breweries. Along the way, stamps are earned via a geo-tag feature at each location or by uploading a “selfie” taken on-site. Once you’ve collected all eight stamps, you can redeem your completed passport at one of two Flagstaff Convention & Visitors Bureau locations for a commemorative pint glass—a perfect keepsake from a memorable craft beer journey.
What strikes one most about Flagstaff is its effortless ability to balance rugged adventure with moments of refinement. Whether gazing at the stars at Lowell Observatory, hiking a volcanic trail, or savoring a chef-crafted meal, Flagstaff offers something memorable at every turn.
It’s more than a place to visit—it’s a place to experience. And with its close proximity and direct flights, it’s easier than ever to let this mountain town work its magic.
For more information, visit www.flagstaffarizona.org.
